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How To Install a Ford F-150 Body Lift Kit

The following information contains instructions on how to install a body lift kit in a late-model F-series truck. Many thanks to Steve Wroblewski for preparing the following article. This tech article was originally posted at FordF150.net. It is primarily intended for Ford trucks but the processes most likely also apply to other vehicles.

Steve's Truck:

Steve's awesome lifted truck!

Disclaimer: Please note that these articles are posted strictly for informational and educational purposes only. FordF150.net is not responsible for any modifications you may make to your vehicle, nor the results you may have. Performing some of the procedures shown on this site may void your warranty. If in doubt, check with Ford or your local dealer for assistance..

1. Read the Instructions completely and carefully before you begin. Check the kit for proper contents (refer to the part’s list and the picture diagrams.) Before attempting this installation be sure that you are mechanically capable and that  you understand the instructions. If you have any questions or concerns call technical support before you begin. 
Due to the design of this truck, the cab and the bed must be lifted simultaneously to avoid damage. Two floor jacks will be required to complete this installation.

NOTES: To raise the front bumper during the installation of a 3" body lift kit either the tow hooks must be removed or the bumper valance must be notched to clear the tow hooks. This should not be necessary with a 2" kit. The rear bumper cannot be lifted with the installation of a 2" body lift kit. WARNING TO VEHICLE OWNER - due to the design of this vehicle, it is more likely for the cab to make contact with the bed after a body lift has been installed. Use extreme care while operating this vehicle off-road or under any conditions that will cause the frame to torque considerable.

2. Park the vehicle on a clean, dry, flat (level) surface. Block the tires so the vehicle cannot roll in either directions.

3. Disconnect both battery cables. Be sure to disconnect the negative cable first, then the positive cable. Remove the airbag fuse from the fuse box. consult the owners manual for the exact location of the fuse.

4. Remove the doorjamb scuff plates by gently pulling until the tabs release from the holes in the floorboard. Remove the front kick panels by gently pulling out from the carpeting back to expose the cab mounting bolt in the front floorboard.

5. Super cab models only. The rear seat must be removed to access the rear cab mounting bolts. the seat back does not need to be removed. fold the rear seat forward. Remove the two bolts that mount the seat to the floorboard. Fold the rear seat back. Under the seat there are three bolts and three nuts that mount the seat legs to the floorboard. Remove the bolts and nuts. Lift the seat off the studs protruding from the floorboard and carefully remove it from the vehicle. Carefully pull the carpeting back to expose the back four cab mounting bolts (Two on each side. One is under the seat back and the other is just behind the front seat in the floorboard.)

6. 4 wheel drive models only. Remove the four screws that mount the shift boot to the floorboard. Pull the boot up out of the way (It cannot be removed over the shift knob). remove the four bolts that mount the inner shift boot to the floorboard (there are two on top and two on the side.) Carefully pull the inner boot up through the hole in the carpeting 
and out of the way. Remove the bolt that mounts the shift lever to the transfer case shift linkage. Remove the shift lever from the linkage. Slide both shift boots off the bottom of the shift lever. It may be necessary to lubricate the shift lever to remove the inner boot.

7. Loosen and remove the bolt that mounts the steering shaft universal joint to the steering column under the dash. Remove the steering shaft from the column. Install the female side of the steering extension to the male shaft at the steering column. It should only go on one way. Install the Allen head bolt in the steering extension. Be sure that the bolt goes through the retaining groove on the male shaft. Tighten the Allen head bolt securely. We recommend the use of loctite or a similar adhesive on all steering hardware. Do not install the steering shaft to the extension at this time. It will be installed after the lifting operation is complete. Lock the steering column so the steering wheel cannot turn independently from the steering shaft. If the steering shaft was to move from its current location it could cause the airbag system to malfunction.

8. Remove the cover over the throttle body on the intake manifold. Loosen the clamp that attaches the air duct to the throttle body. Release the clamp that holds the two halves of the air filter housing together. Remove the air duct from the throttle body. Lay the air duct back out of the way.

9. Remove the two bolts that mount the fan shroud to the radiator. Pull the fan shroud up out of the clips on the radiator. Lay the fan shroud over the fan away from the radiator.

10. Pull down the air flap between the bumper and the bottom of the core support to reach the front bumper mounts. Be careful no to damage the plastic mounting tabs. Disconnect any wires going to the front bumper (driving lights, etc.). Remove the four nuts that mount the front bumper to the frame mounts. Remove the front bumper from the vehicle.

11. Remove the bolt that attaches each cab safety cable to the frame. They are located under both doors and are mounted to the body and the frame. a new mounting hole must be drilled.

12. Remove the bolt that attaches the body to frame ground wire to the frame under the passenger side door. The ground wire will be moved after the lifting operation is complete.

13. Remove the wire loom that goes to the battery from the bracket on top of the passenger side frame rail. Remove the bolt that mounts the bracket to the frame rail. It needs to be moved and modified.

14. A steel line runs along the drivers side frame rail from the engine to the rear of the vehicle. Remove the line from the front two mounting brackets. This should allow the line to flex while lifting.

15. Automatic transmission models only. Remove the two bolts that mount the transmission shift cable to the side of the transmission. The bracket needs to be moved after lifting. Manual transmission models only. Be sure that the transmission is in neutral before lifting the cab. the shift lever should be slightly lower in the floorboard after lifting.

16. Remove the fuel cap. Remove the three screws that mount the fuel filler to the body. Loosen the clamp that mounts the filler hose to the fuel tank. Loosen the clamp that mounts the vent hose to the fuel tank. Remove the entire assembly from the vehicle. The filler hose will need to be lengthened after lifting.

17. Disconnect the license plate lights from the rear bumper. remove the four nuts that mount the rear bumper to the frame. Remove the rear bumper from the vehicle.

18. Measure the distance between the cab and the bed. Record the measurements to insure proper alignment of the cab and the bed after the lifting operation is complete. Loosen but do not remove all cab mounting bolts. They are located as follows: Beside the radiator screwing up from the bottom. In the front floorboard, behind the front seat, and on 
extra cab models at the very rear of the cab below the rear seatback. Loosen but do not remove all bed mounting bolts. All bed mounting bolts are accessed from inside the bed. A special t-47 torx socket is required to loosen the bed mounting bolts.

19. Remove the cab mounting bolts from the passenger side of the cab. Remove the
bed mounting bolts from the passenger side of the bed. Check for any wires, hoses, cables, etc. that may be too short and that may have not been covered in the instructions. NOTE: On vehicles equipped with 4.2 liter V-6, pay close attention to the lower radiator hose. It may come in contact with the fan belt. If it does, it will be necessary to lengthen the hose to keep it away from the belt. Important! The cab and the bed must be lifted simultaneously. Failure to lift the cab and the bed at the same time will result in damage to the bed and to the cab. Using two hydraulic jacks and wooden blocks, slowly lift the cab and the bed just high enough to place the spacers on the mounting pads. Be sure to continuously check for any wires, cables, hoses, etc. that may be binding. Remove the 
front cab bushings from the frame mount. Using a 1/2" drill, drill the thread out of the bushing sleeve. This will allow the new bolt to slide through the sleeve. Replace the bushing on the frame mount. Place the spacers on the cab bushing and on the frame under the bed. Install the new mounting bolts with a 7/16" washer in the following manner: 12mm x 180mm at the front mount, 12mm x 180 mm in the front floorboard, 12mm 140mm behind the front seat, 12mm x 200mm at the rear of the cab. Note: On standard cab models there is no mount behind the rear seat. The 12mm x 140mm bolts will not be used. Install 12mm x 180mm at all location on the bed. On 2" kits the bolt lengths will be 20mm shorter.

20. Repeat steps 19 for the driver’s side of the vehicle. Realign the cab and the bed. Refer to the measurements made earlier. Tighten all body mounting bolts securely. We recommend the use a loctite or similar adhesive on all mounting hardware.

21. Check the parking brake cable to be sure that it slid down through the rubber grommet at the floorboard. If it has not, slide the cable down through the grommet. Be sure that the grommet is attached securely to the floorboard.

22. Connect the steering shaft to the steering extension. It should only go on one way. Be sure that the steering shaft and the steering wheel have not turned from their original locations. Install the stock steering bolt in the steering shaft. Be sure that the bolt engages the slot on the steering extension. We recommend the use of loctite or similar adhesive on all steering hardware.

23. 4 wheel drive manual shift only. Scribe a line along the 4 wheel drive shift lever just above the bend. Cut the shift lever into two pieces through the scribed line. Insert the shift extension pin between the two pieces of the shift lever. Align both parts of the scribed line. Weld the extension in place. We recommend that all welding be done by a certified welder only. Painting the shift lever to help prevent rusting may be desirable. Reinstall both shift boots onto the shift lever. Reinstall the shift lever to the transfer case shift linkage. Check the shift lever operation. Be sure that it engages properly in all 4 wheel drive ranges. Install the mounting bolt and tighten it securely. Mount the inner shift boot to the floorboard. Tighten the mounting screws securely. Mount the outer shift boot to the inner housing. Tighten the mounting screws securely. Check the shift lever operation once more.

24. Replace the carpeting to its original location. Reinstall both kick panels and both doorjamb scuff plates. On SuperCab models, replace the rear seat at this time. Mount the seat on the studs protruding from the floorboard. Install the bolts into the floorboard. Install the nuts onto the studs. Tighten all mounting hardware securely.

25. Automatic transmission models only. Using the stock hardware, mount the automatic transmission cable relocating bracket to the side of the transmission. Mount the stock transmission cable bracket to the new bracket using the two 5/16" x 1" bolts, four 5/16" washers and two 5/16" nylon lock nuts. Tighten all mounting hardware securely. We recommend the use of loctite or similar adhesive on all mounting hardware. In some cases it may be necessary to bend the transmission shift lever to better align with the new angle of the shift cable. Adjusting the automatic transmission shift indicator may also be necessary since the throw of the cable has changed. There is an adjustment wheel found under the dash that adjusts the position of the indicator. Turn the wheel found under the dash that adjusts the position of the indicator. Turn the wheel until the indicator registers in the desirable location for all positions.

26. Locate the stock holes on each side of the frame rail that the cab safety cables were originally mounted. Measure 1" forward from the stock holes and mark the spot.Using a 1/2" drill, drill a new mounting hole through the spot on each side of the frame. Be especially careful of the lines running along the inside of the frame rail. Move lines out of the way before drilling. Using the stock bolt and nut, mount the cab safety cables to the frame through the new holes. The hook on the end of the cable should catch the stock hole. tighten the mounting bolts securely. We recommend the use of loctite or similar adhesive on all mounting hardware.

27. Using the stock bolt, mount the "L" shaped ground wire relocating bracket to the passenger side frame rail where the ground wire was originally mounted. The bracket should be positioned where the long side of the bracket is against the frame rail. Tighten the bolt securely. Mount the ground wire to the bracket using a 1/4" x 1" bolt, two 1/4" washers and a 1/4" nylon lock nut. Tighten the bolt securely.

28. Using the stock bolt, mount the remaining "L" shaped bracket tot the top of the passenger side frame rail where the battery cable bracket was mounted. Mount the bracket so the long side is pointing upward. Tighten the mounting bolt securely. Bend the stock battery cable bracket 90 degrees. Mount the stock bracket to the new bracket using 
a 1/4" x 1" bolt, two 1/4" washers and a 1/4" nylon lock nut. Be sure that the ground wire is reconnected when the "L" bracket is mounted. Tighten the 1/4" hardware securely.

29. The lower mounting tabs on the fan shroud must be removed to lower the fan shroud. On some models it may be necessary to remove the radiator and the fan shroud to access the lower mounting tabs. If the radiator needs to be removed proceed as follows: Be sure that the radiator has cooled sufficiently to prevent any injury. Remove the radiator cap. Drain the coolant into a clean container. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses from the radiator. If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the transmission cooling lines from the radiator. Remove the radiator from the vehicle. Remove the fan shroud from the vehicle. Using a hacksaw, cut both lower fan shroud mounting tabs flush with the side of the shroud. Reinstall the fan shroud in the vehicle. Reinstall the radiator in the vehicle. Reconnect the transmission cooling lines. Reconnect both radiator hoses. Reinstall the top mounting bolts and cover. Be sure that all hose clamps and lines are tightened properly and that the drain is completely closed. Refill the radiator as much as possible. It will need to be topped when the vehicle is started. Using the stock bolts mount the two upper fan shroud lowering brackets to the radiator where the fan shroud was 
originally mounted. Do not tighten. Mount the fan shroud to the studs protruding from the fan shroud brackets. Install a 1/4" washer and nylon lock nut on each stud. Do not tighten. Check the fan to fan shroud clearance. Be sure that the gap is the same all the way around. Tighten all upper fan shroud mounting hardware securely. Remove the bolt in the front of the core support that mounts the center brace to the lower part of the core support. 
Mount the lower fan shroud support bracket to the location that the bolt was just removed. Using the bracket as a template, mark the bottom of the fan shroud through the hole in the bracket. Drill a 5/16" hole in the bottom of the shroud. Using a 1/4" bolt, two 1/4" washers and a 1/4" nylon lock nut, mount the fan shroud to the lower fan shroud support bracket. Be sure to install the bolt from inside the shroud so the threads on the bolt are pointing downward. This will prevent the fan from making contact with the bolt. Tighten the bolt securely. Check the fan to fan shroud clearance again. Be sure that it has not changed. Reinstall the air intake duct to the top of the throttle body. Reconnect the duct to the air filter housing. Close the clamp at the air filter housing. tighten the clamp at the throttle body. Reinstall the cover over the throttle body. Tighten the mounting bolts securely.

30. Lengthen the fuel filler hose. Mark the hose just below the bend so the two pieces can be properly aligned after the extension has been installed. cut the filler hose into two pieces. Install the round fuel filler extension between the two pieces of the filler hose. Install a #28 hose clamp at each end of the filler extension. Tighten both hose clamps securely. Remove the fuel vent hose. Install the longer vent hose provided with the kit. Install a #10 hose clamp on the new vent hose and tighten securely. Reinstall the fuel filler assembly on the vehicle. Install the fuel filler hose to the fuel tank using the stock hose clamp. Install the vent hose to the fuel tank using the remaining #10 hose clamp. Mount the filler neck to the body using the stock screws. Be sure that the filler hose engages properly at all areas. Tighten all fuel filler hardware securely. Reinstall the fuel filler cap.

31. Install the front bumper. Note: To raise the front bumper on of two things must be done. Either the two hooks must be removed, or the bumper valance must be notched for clearance around the tow hooks. Using a 7/16" x 1 1/2" bolt, two 7/16" washers and a 7/16" nylon lock nut at the bottom stock mount. Install the front bumper relocating brackets 
behind the stock bumper mounts. Do not tighten. Install the bottom stud on the bumper to the top hole on the stock mount. Install the top stud to the top hole on the new bracket. Install the stock nuts. Adjust the bumper to body clearance. tighten all bumper mounting hardware securely. Reconnect any wires that were previously disconnected from the front bumper. Replace the rubber air flap to its original location. We recommend the use of 
loctite or similar adhesive on all mounting hardware.

32. Install the rear bumper. 2" kit only. On the installation of a 2" body lift kit the rear bumper must be installed as it was stock. Reinstall the rear bumper to the stock locations using the stock hardware. Adjust the bumper to body clearance. Tighten all bumper mounting hardware securely. We recommend the use of loctite or similar adhesive on all mounting hardware. 3" kit only. Measure down 3" from the existing spare tire crank hole. Mark this location. Using a hole saw, cut a 1" hole through the bumper. Remove the plastic collar from the stock hole and install it in the new hole. Mount the bumper relocating brackets to the frame mount at the bottom outside mounting hole only using the 7/16"x 1 1/2" bolts. 7/16" washers and 7/16" nylon lock nuts. Position the bumper in the upper holes on the 
bumper bracket. Adjust the bumper height and side clearance. Mark the frame through the upper outside hole in the bracket where the stud makes contact with the frame. Be sure that the bumper is in the desired location before marking the frame. Drill a 1/2" hole in the frame mount at the locations that were just marked. Mount the rear bumper to the new brackets and the frame. Install the stock nuts on the studs from the bumper. Do not tighten. 
From under the vehicle mark the lower inside hole in the frame and bumper bracket on the bumper. Be sure that the bumper is adjusted to the desired location. Remove that bumper again. Drill a 1/2" hole at the location on the bumper that was just marked. Install a 7/16" x 1 1/2" bolt with a 7/16" washer through the holes in the bumper. Remount the bumper to the frame and bumper brackets. The stock studs should be going through the top holes in the 
bumper brackets with the stock nuts on the inside. The 7/16" bolts should be installed through the bottom holes with a 7/16" washer and nylon lock nut on each. Check the bumper mounting hardware securely. Reconnect the license plate lights to the rear bumper. We recommend the use of loctite or similar adhesive on all mounting hardware.

WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TOW WITH THIS BUMPER AFTER THE BUMPER BRACKETS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED. THE BRACKETS SUPPLIED IN THIS KIT ARE NOT RATED FOR TOWING OF ANY KIND. ANY ATTEMPT TO TOW WITH THIS BUMPER CAN RESULT IN VEHICLE DAMAGE AND PERSONAL INJURY. ALL TOWING SHOULD ONLY BE DONE WITH A CLASS III RECEIVER TYPE HITCH.

33. Install the bed overload spacers on the frame rail in the rear fender well. They go at the location where the bed support rails rested on the frame before lifting. some vehicles may require only two of the overload pads. Tack weld the spacers to the top of the frame rail. We recommend that all welding be done by a certified welder only.

34. Place the warning sticker on the vehicle dash in plain sight of all vehicle occupants.

35. Double check the vehicle. Reinstall the air bag fuse. Reconnect both battery cables. Be sure to connect the positive cable first, then the negative cable. Check all wires, hoses, cables, etc. to be sure that there is ample slack. Double check the fan to fan shroud clearance. Be sure that the fan cannot make contact with the shroud. Check the radiator hoses to be sure that they are not contacting any moving parts (such as the fan or lower pulley assembly). Be sure that all hardware has been tightened properly. Check the entire engine compartment for anything that looks unusual. If the radiator was removed earlier remove the radiator cap so the radiator can be refilled once the vehicle has reached normal operating temperature. Start the vehicle. Check the steering. Turn the wheel all the way to the left and all the way to the right. Be sure that there is no binding. Check the clutch operation. check the manual transmission shift lever operation. Be sure that it engages in all gears. Check the automatic transmission shift lever operation. Check the 4 wheel drive shift lever operation. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, top off the coolant level and install the radiator cap. Be sure that the overflow tank is filled to the proper level. Check the transmission fluid level. Be sure that the fluid is filled to the proper level. Test drive the vehicle in all gears and 4 wheel drive ranges. Check all mounting hardware in 500 miles and as part of your regular maintenance schedule.

Parts list

Parts for the 2" kit are the same as the 3" kit unless otherwise noted.
2" large spacers
12mm x 120mm bolts
12mm x 160mm bolts
12mm x 180mm bolts

16 3" large spacers 2" large spacers

2 12mm x 140mm bolts 12mm x 120mm bolts
12 12mm x 180mm bolts 12mm x 160mm bolts
2 12mm x 200mm bolts 12mm x 180mm bolts

24 7/16" large washer
1 steering extension
1 3/8" x 1 1/4" Allen head steering 
extension bolt
2 front bumper brackets
2 rear bumper brackets (3" kit only)
4 7/16" x 1 1/2" bolts
4 7/16" nylon lock nuts
2 ground wire extension (L shaped)
3 1/4" x 1" bolts
8 1/4" washers
5 1/4" nylon lock nuts
1 automatic transmission cable relocating bracket
3 5/16" x 1" bolts
4 5/16" washers
2 5/16" nylon lock nuts
1 1/2" round transfer case shift extension pin
1 fuel filler extension pipe
2 #28 hose clamps
1 13" piece of 3/4" hose
2 #10 hose clamps
2 fan shroud drop down brackets
1 lower fan shroud support
2 bed overload spacers

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