F150 Keypad Installation Article
Thanks to Anthony Camilleri for contributing this article. This tech article was originally posted at FordF150.net. It is primarily intended for Ford trucks but most likely also applies to other Ford models.
Disclaimer: Please note that this article isposted strictly for informational and educational purposes only. We arenot responsible for any modifications you may make to your vehicle, nor the results you may have. Performing some of the procedures shown on this site may void your warranty. If in doubt, check with Ford or your local dealer for assistance.
With the keyless entry keypad you can:
- Lock or unlock the vehicle doors without using the key
- Arm and disarm the perimeter alarm system
- Activate/deactivate the autolock feature
Your vehicle has a factory-set 5-digit code that operates the keyless entry system. The code is located on a sticker on the computer module (RAP). When pressing the controls on the keyless entry keypad, press the middle of the buttons to ensure a good activation.
IMPORTANT: Every step outlined in every procedure below must be done within five(5) seconds of the previous step.
Programming your own personal entry code
- Enter the factory-set code (keypad will illuminate when first digit is pressed).
- Press the 1/2 control.
- Enter your personal 5-digit code.
Your personal code does not replace the factory-set code. You can use either code to unlock your vehicle. Each time you set a new personal code the module will erase the previous one in favor of the new code.
Deprogramming (erasing) your own personal code and leaving only the factory-set
- Enter the factory-set code.
- Press the 1/2 control.
- Press the 7/8 and 9/0 controls at the same time.
The system will now only respond to the factory-set code.
Unlocking the driver's door (also disarms the perimeter alarm system)
- Enter either the factory-set code or the personal code. The interior lights will illuminate as soon as the first valid digit is pressed.
Unlocking all doors
- Unlock the driver's door then press the 3/4 control.
Locking the doors (also arms the perimeter alarm system)
- Press 7/8 and 9/0 controls at the same time. The 5-digit code does not have to be entered.
- Enter the five (5) digit code.
- Press and release the 3/4 control while holding the 7/8 control, then release 7/8.
- 1 Door handle/keypad assembly for '99 Ford Expedition. Ford genuine part # XL1Z-7822405-XXX (XXX is the appropriate color code)
- 7 pieces (6 small, 1 large) female connector pins similar to ones already on the RAP connectors. Only 7 pins are needed the eight wire is spliced to ground. Also see Notes 1 & 2 below.
- 8 pieces each 6 ft. long of 18 gauge multi stranded wire.
- 1 piece 3/8" diameter heat shrink tubing 6 ft. long (substitute with electrical tape).
- 8 pieces 1/8" diameter heat shrink tubing each 1" long (substitute with electrical tape).
- 3 pieces 6 in. long nylon wire ties.
- 1 piece 6ft. strong string, for pulling wire bundle through the grommet.
- Electrical tape
- Assorted tools
Note 1: When you remove the RAP module and unplug the connectors take a look and try to get these from the local electronics component store. I did not bother to take the connector apart fearing causing damage that I would not be able to repair. So I took the RAP module to the store and tried various until I found a good fit on the pins and just guessed at the overall size for insertion into the connector. I lucked out. There was no part # on the drawers at the self help electronic store. I may not have used the proper ones in my installation but they are working OK. Perhaps from an Auto Electric supply house.
Note 2: You could consider doing portions of STAGE FOUR below to help with the search for the connector pins. DO NOT FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.
FOUR STAGES are:
- Prepare the door handle assembly for installation.
- Install the door handle with keypad in the driver's side door.
- Thread the eight wire bundle through the grommet between the door and the body.
- Make the electrical connections with the RAP module.
STAGE 1: Prepare the door handle assy. for installation.
- Clip off the connector.
- Connect the eight wires with the eight (6ft) pieces of wire, solder and insulate each one with the 1/8" dia.(1 in.) pieces of heat shrink tubing or with electrical tape.
- Label the ends of the each wire extension with the
appropriate color code of each of the eight wires.
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT FOR FINAL STAGE. The wire
LIGHT BLUE/YELLOW STRIPE
LIGHT GREEN/RED STRIPE
- Slip the eight wires through the 3/8" dia. (6 ft) piece of heat shrink tubing or bind together with electrical tape to make a bundle. Leave at least 4" exposed at the free end.
- Temporarily tape over this free end of the wire bundle right over the labeled ends, for protection, when threading through the grommet later. You will remove this when you add the female pins for connection to the RAP module later still.
- The new handle assembly is now ready to install in the driver's side door.
STAGE 2: Install the door handle with keypad in the driver's side door.
- Make sure the window is completely shut.
- Remove the 'sail' panel at the top front edge of the door. First pry the top out towards you, then lift it straight up. Remove the Phillips screw behind it.
- Remove the door handle trim. To do this pull the handle out and hold it while prying the trim piece on the speaker side, then lift and rotate it to reveal a 5/16" bolt behind it.
- Remove the 5/16" bolt to remove the handle. Set it aside.
- Pry up, also speaker end first, the power window and door lock switch panel. Unplug the three connectors and set it aside.
- Remove the Phillips screw now visible through the switch panel opening in the panel .
- Pry off the courtesy light lens using indent along the bottom edge. Remove the Phillips screw in the reflector well.
- Lift the door panel straight up and off. If it does not lift off easily you missed something.
- Reach under the top edge and unplug the power mirror connector.
- Reach down and remove the courtesy bulb socket. 1/4 turn anti-clockwise.
- Put the door panel aside.
- Remove the four 1/4" bolts holding the speaker. Unplug the connector to the speaker and set the speaker aside.
- Using your or your mates hair dryer apply heat to the stuck-on insulation layer and peel back enough at the top left corner of the door (about a foot). Heating the adhesive allows it to come off more readily and will help control accidental tearing. Peel back just enough to expose the door handle mechanism. (Use the dryer again when reassembling).
- Remove the two 3/8" nuts and push the door handle out along the bottom edge first.
- From outside the door observe how the C-clip is installed around the key cylinder in the handle and the position of the key cylinder arm. Remove the clip and the key cylinder should slide off. Leave it on the push rod for now.
- Twist the door handle around to release the hook shaped door latch push rod.
- Remove the key cylinder from the key lock push rod.
- Install the key cylinder in the new handle/keypad. Reinstall the C-clip.
- Thread the 8-wire bundle through the handle opening and through to the inside. You will fish it along the door later.
- Hook the keypad handle onto the hook shaped pushrod.
- Seat it in place, top edge goes in first, and fasten it with the two 3/8" nuts.
- Connect the key lock push rod by snapping it onto the key cylinder arm.
- Fish the wire bundle back through and along the outer wall of the door and out the speaker opening (temporary). Pull straight down below the handle towards the reinforcing bar that is spot welded to the sheet metal. Using a nylon wire tie, tie it to the reinforcing bar immediately below the handle. This will keep it away from the window travel path. Put another nylon tie about halfway along the door length. A third tie will be installed later.
STAGE 3: Thread the 8-wire bundle through the grommet
- Now you have to 'fish' the wire bundle through the grommet between the door edge and the truck body. To do this you have to have access to the inside end of the grommet. The parking brake mechanism is in the way and has to be moved down.
- Remove the door sill trim. Pry and lift straight up.
- Remove the kick panel. Pry and pull straight back. You may have to pull the rubber door seal back to do this but it's no big deal as you can push it right back on. These two steps will expose most, but not all of the parking brake mechanism.
- Tilt the steering wheel to its lowest position. By prying along the bottom edge of the wrap-around panel located above the steering column but below the inst. panel lift it off. this will expose a 9/32" screw on the right side of the steering. Remove this screw.
- Remove the fuse box cover. Remove the 9/32" screws going through the parking brake release and the the hood release mechanism. There is one in front and one in the bottom on both mechanisms.
- Remove the remaining 9/32" screws (total of eight) holding the bottom panel. Make a mental note of where these screws belong to help you reassemble later.
- Remove the two 5/16" bolts located to the right and somewhat below the fuse box. These are the last two screws holding the bottom panel in place. Put the panel aside.
- The parking brake mechanism is fastened to the truck body with three 3/8" bolts. You should see the closest one located immediately to the left of the fuse box almost obscured by a large cable bundle. Use an open end wrench to remove this.
- Look in the centre of the top edge of the brake mechanism find the second 3/8" bolt and turn it back about four or five turns. You do not have to remove it completely as the brake mechanism is slotted in this location so it will slide off once you remove the third bolt.
- Remove the third bolt which is located along the bottom of the brake mechanism on the opposite side of the first bolt.
- Push the brake mechanism down as far as it will go towards the truck floor.
- This should expose the inside end of the grommet. The grommet is quite long. There are about 6 inches between the door and the door jamb and another 6 inches or so of truck body space between the door jamb and the inner panel of the truck, so don't be fooled. 'Fishing' the 8-wire bundle into the truck ain't easy but very doable.
- If you do not have a 'fish' tool, make one up out of at least 2 feet of semi flexible wire. An old coat hanger will do. Make sure you bend both ends back on themselves so when you push it through the grommet it won't get punctured. Tie the 6 foot piece of strong string to one end of the fishing tool and put a piece of electrical tape over this end. Lubricate this 'tool' with vaseline or similar.
- Working from the inside of the truck, feel for the grommet and start feeding the 'fish' through towards the door. You can help it along by feeling and shifting the 'accordian' part of the grommet with your other hand. Once you are through to the inside of the door. Pull the 'tool' and string through to the door and out the speaker opening but make sure you leave enough string on the inside of the truck so you can pull it back..
- Untie the string from the 'fish' tool. Tie the string securely to the free end of the 8-wire bundle and tape it securely. You do not want it to accidentally pull off.
- Lubricate the 8-wire bundle and pull it through the grommet to the inside of the truck.
- Leaving a little slack for door motion, use the third nylon tie to bind the 8-wire cable to the front edge of the reinforcing bar inside the door.
- Leave the 8-wire bundle hanging loose in the front of the truck for now.
- Reassemble everything.
- You are now ready to make the electrical connections, Stage four.
STAGE 4: Make the electrical connections with the RAP module
- Disconnect the battery ground. This is a must do. When you reconnect the battery at the end you will need to reprogram the radio stations and drive your truck for at least 10 miles so the computer can relearn your driving personality.
- The RAP (Remote Anti-theft Personality) module is fastened to the top of the firewall directly behind the fuse box. It can be reached easily when you lie on your back in the driver floor area with your head close to the brake pedal. Just look up and you'll see it is clearly marked and the sticker also displays the factory-set access code for your truck.
- Once you locate the RAP module remove the two 3/8" nuts and pull it down so you can work at it without lying on your back. Make a note of the 5-digit access code on it.
- Unplug the two connectors. C256 has 26pin locations, C257 has 22. These are Ford schematic numbers.
- Add the 7 female pins onto the coded wire ends and
insert according to the "electrical connections
" diagram on the pictures below. Splice the
black wire as shown . The diagram shows the
necessary connections circled in red and also shows
the preexisting wires which will help you figure out
what pin locations and splice wire are to be
selected. It is assumed the installer will recognize
the wire color code abbreviations such as BK for
Black, BK/PK for Black with pink stripe, etc.
- Make sure the pins are locked in place in the connectors. Re-plug the two connectors into the RAP Module.
- Reconnect the battery ground.
- Test the keypad for all its functions (refer to keypad use instructions above).
- When all is functioning as it should, put the RAP module back where it belongs with the two 3/8" nuts.
- Mission accomplished.
Notes: If you have a remote keyless entry there is a good chance you can install the keypad. I paid $130 out-the-door for the handle and keypad. Look under the dash and see if you have a white box with a 5 digit number on it. This is the RAP module which the keypad connects to. Don't know about a 98. I have a 2000 Lightning and it hooked up very well.
The part number for the keypad is YL3Z-14A6266-AA, and the number for the handle is as follows: XL1Z-7822405-BAK Silver (YN), XL1Z-7822405-DAB Red (E4), XL1Z-7822405-BAJ White (Y0), XL1Z-7822405-BAH Black (UA).
Just completed the install of the Keyless Entry Keypad. I reviewed the instructions on the Expedition board and printed out the wiring diagram. Then examined the module on my 2000 L and recognized that the wires were already in place for the keypad. Went to the dealer and the wiring diagram did show that the wiring harness was in the door.
Do this with the window up at all times.
Remove the door panel by popping off the "sail" panel and the door handle trim. Both should be removed by hand without the use and any tools. This revealed a Phillips screw under each one. Remove both screws and lift the door panel up and it comes right off. Unplug all the wiring connectors from the door panel. Just squeeze the release button and pull out.
Next remove the speaker and unplug it. Then used a hair dryer to slowly remove the stuck-on insulation. Remove the entire piece. Look into the top right of the speaker hole and you will find the mysterious plug for the keypad.
Push the 2 small white clips and the plug comes right out.
In my excitement knowing that I didn't have to go through the nightmare of completely wiring the keypad, I plugged it in for an immediate test.
I looked at the white control module (RAP – Remote Anti-theft Personality) and got my access number. Keyed in the 5 digit and then came the big smile on my face. All features worked.
The next step was to remove the handle. I used a 10 MM socket to get the right nut off. The left nut was real difficult to remove. The connector rod between the handle and the locking mechanism was directly in the way. I used a universal joint for my ¼ " socket driver and eventually was able to get it off. Using a 3/8 or ½ socket driver will be too large as there is not much room in there. Might give it a try though if that is all you have. The nuts were not 3/8 inch. A 3/8 inch socket could possibly work but there is a threat of rounding off the nut.
I also loosened the bolt holding the left window channel to the door. Lower left corner of the below photo. This helps to get around better to get the left nut off.
MAJOR HINT: look at the below photo and you will see a yellow clip that is holding the connector rod to the locking mechanism. The clip can be opened and the rod will come right off. Then it can be removed from the handle. This will make it real easy to get the left nut off. I didn't do this until I had gotten the handle off. Since this part is threaded, I didn't know if the clip came off or if the rod was screwed in. The clip does just hold it in. The threads are to make sure it does not slip up and down.
Before removing the handle, I surrounded the entire area with duct tape so the handle would not scratch anything. Good thing as it is real tight getting the lock clip out of the handle assembly
I then removed the handle by pushing the lower part out far enough to get the clip loose that holds the door lock in. Used a pair of channel locks to pull the U shaped pin out. The lock then fell out and I removed the small rod that connects it to the locking mechanism. Only remove the rod from the lock itself and let it dangle inside the door.
Next step was to install the lock and keypad on the new handle. Put the lock back in the handle and secure it with the U shaped pin that holds it in. DON'T put the connector rod for the lock back on yet. This can be done after the new handle has been bolted in. Attach the keypad to the handle (one screw). My keypad did not come with a screw. Be careful with the size and length of the screw you use since this is plastic and if you crack the hole opening YOU are screwed and not the handle. Check with you dealer and see if he shows a part number for the screw.
Feed the keypad wiring through the door handle hole and put the handle in the door. Don't connect the rod for the handle at this time. In fact, if you removed it to get the left nut off it should be completely out of the door. Connect the plug and test it. Pressing the 7/8 9/0 together to lock the doors and key in your 5 digit code to unlock them. Then unplug it. Since there is no bare wires to contend with, it is not necessary to disconnect the battery for this install.
Put the 10 MM nuts back on. Might want to get someone to hold the handle in place from the outside of the door. It moves a little so they can keep it centered. After the handle is secured, secure the keypad wiring harness inside the door. On your wiring harness you will see 2 white clips. These are to hold it in place inside the door. Believe it or not, there are 2 openings in the very top of the door area. Look all the way to the top and you will see 2 oval holes 11 inches apart. Plug em in. If they are a little off just untape the clips and move them enough to plug in. I had to move the one closest to the handle about 3/8 inch so it would plug in.
Make sure the plug assemble goes behind the window channel DUH! Plug that sucker in and you are about done. Test it again.
With my keypad assembly, the wires were not long enough to secure the plug back to the door with the 2 white clips. I folded the excess wires and taped them together with duct tape. See below.
Sorry about the blurred picture.
Now connect the door handle rod to the handle and place the threaded end back on the door lock mechanism and pop the yellow clip back in place. Also, just push the door lock connecting rod onto the lock in the handle.
You are done with the keypad part. Do a final test and put the door back together. Here's what mine looks like.
If you want these instructions without the photos e-mail me.
It took me 3 hours to do this install. It took me 2 hours to get the left nut off. With these instructions you should be able to do this in about 1 hour. The biggest trick is to remove the yellow clip on the door handle connector rod and removing the window channel bolt.
I went back into my door and make a modification that will allow the 2 clips on the plug to attach to the door in the same manner it was before the install. To view my keypad install photos go to my album at <link broken> and view the bottom 2 photos and note that the 2 new holes are just to the left of the rectangular opening.
I had to drill 2 holes about 6 inches from the old ones at the eleven o'clock position. The larger hole is 1/4 inch and the smaller one 3/16. Since the new hole will be rougher than the original factory hole it will be necessary to ream the hole out a little to get the clips to pop in.
If you do this mod take extreme caution when drilling so the bit does not get pulled through the hole and into the outer door surface. As soon as the drill bit breaks through it will have a tendancy to corkscrew into the hole. BE CAREFUL. And yes, I was able to stop the drill bit once it started to corkscrew through the hole.